Fuck surfing. Fuck the ocean. And fuck this board. I'm done with this shit.
One weekend in August of 2019, I was smitten by the love of surfing.
If you’re not saying “HELL YEAH!” about something, say no. -Derek Sivers
Enjoy, my friends. I hope it inspires the hell out of you. Cheers. 🤘🏼
I suppose I should tell you that I’m a mostly law abiding, contributing member of society. I don’t condone lawlessness, and I don’t actively seek to break the law. It’s just that, well, every once in a Halley’s comet, I find myself doing something really fun, which also HAPPENS to be (sometimes questionably) illegal. And [...]
...all human beings just want to be completely, authentically self-expressed.
Dear America 2020: Pull your heads out of your asses.
...when you can observe what you fear, and do it anyway.