Fuck surfing. Fuck the ocean. And fuck this board. I'm done with this shit.
One weekend in August of 2019, I was smitten by the love of surfing.
Enjoy, my friends. I hope it inspires the hell out of you. Cheers. 🤘🏼
I suppose I should tell you that I’m a mostly law abiding, contributing member of society. I don’t condone lawlessness, and I don’t actively seek to break the law. It’s just that, well, every once in a Halley’s comet, I find myself doing something really fun, which also HAPPENS to be (sometimes questionably) illegal. And [...]
All us hospital campers lined up in the cafeteria at mealtimes. It hits me right in the feels to see the faces of the selfless staff who give of their time and sleep to serve the lives of others.
It was slightly unnerving. I momentarily had a vision of the magnitude of this behemoth force of nature. Suddenly I felt tiny, minuscule.