Three things I practice in real life. Enjoy, you sexy bastards.
What a mental ride that isn't over yet.
...that tendon was slumped across the top of my shoulder like a damned broken slinky.
Fuck surfing. Fuck the ocean. And fuck this board. I'm done with this shit.
One weekend in August of 2019, I was smitten by the love of surfing.
...when you can observe what you fear, and do it anyway.