What a mental ride that isn't over yet.
...that tendon was slumped across the top of my shoulder like a damned broken slinky.
Maybe your shitty perception reaps your shitty life.
You'd rather masturbate than make love.
Fuck surfing. Fuck the ocean. And fuck this board. I'm done with this shit.
One weekend in August of 2019, I was smitten by the love of surfing.
If you’re not saying “HELL YEAH!” about something, say no. -Derek Sivers