Fuck surfing. Fuck the ocean. And fuck this board. I'm done with this shit.
One weekend in August of 2019, I was smitten by the love of surfing.
If you’re not saying “HELL YEAH!” about something, say no. -Derek Sivers
...when you can observe what you fear, and do it anyway.
I’ve only truly regretted the times when I stayed in my comfort zone, or ran back to it, when I knew damn well I was being called to greater things.
I refocus and reach to lower her to the floor. I prepare to start compressions on my mom. Just before I lift her, she takes another shallow breath.
Every time the shit has gone down in my life...I decided that I should just get used to the mediocrity...And yet, here I am.
Let me tell you a secret about experiencing the miraculous in life: Declare a goal, something big, something that scares the shit out of you, and then commit to deliver on it, even if you have no idea how you're going to do it.